鼓楼大街

作者:陈凝康人气:1766更新:2021-07-13 12:00:18

很长一段时间里,每逢周二,我都要从东到西横穿这个城市 ,去北师大学习国画牡丹。每次都要经过德胜门外的鼓楼大街。这条与喧嚣后海、静寂钟楼鼓楼比邻的街道,据说曾是元代古街,有北京最古老的胡同 ,胡同里云集了权贵功臣的高宅大院和普通百姓的素雅民居 。各个老字号与周边古朴的文化氛围相映成趣,古槐环绕,翘角飞檐 ,如果把鼓楼大街比作女子,当是昆曲里外表柔媚,内心沧桑的大青衣 ,包涵无尽说不出的意蕴。

鼓楼大街两边儿有很多老胡同儿,其中有个南锣鼓巷是个青年人聚集的地方,有很多挺有个性的小店儿和吃饭的地儿 ,算是北京年轻一代的潮街。由于年轻人聚集 ,一众潮流商店亦争相落户,很多有个性的东西,星罗棋布 。走在街上 ,随时可找到限量版的波鞋 、各国设计师的DIY作品、德国咖啡店、手工模型店等等。经常路过的一个乐器店里,有一个抱着吉他唱歌的男孩子,有着忧伤的眼神。
    天气转暖后 ,成群的外国人和闲散的年轻人都挤在这儿,我为了去找一种叫甜不辣的小吃,会心血来潮下车漫行 。每次乘车经过时 ,都要注目的一个破旧的木门楼,这次特意去寻找瞻仰了下,没人注意它吧?在角落里 ,雕花那么美。褪尽烟翠的勾画,依然隐含一种妩媚的情节。 。

老式门楼外,塑料垃圾桶旁 ,不知谁家扔了两个坛子 ,粗瓷姜黄的颜色,在和暖的阳光下,看着觉得生活也变得安暖。犹豫了一会儿 ,捡了回来,很沉很沉的一路抱回家,一个做了笔洗 ,一个做了画缸。

鼓楼西大街的道路两旁,笨槐树还没有长出茂盛的叶子,在初春的天空里像一幅宋代的扇面画 ,极雅致,极素净的样子,似乎寒鸦点点 ,秋水含烟的意境在眼前 。

沿着路旁行走,很多胡同口立着名牌 。有些实在是雅致。鸦儿胡同,让人想起枯藤老树昏鸦 ,秋水长天的烟林 ,几户墟里人家;甘露胡同,必是在春天的清晨,有诗人看了门前荷塘娇艳欲滴的白莲上清露涟涟 ,才取了这好名字;棠花胡同,想是有多情的闺阁女子,在盛放的棠花林中 ,思念远行的恋人,棠花原是苦情之花,有一种哀伤之美;孝友胡同 ,一定是住过谦谦君子,上孝高堂,下敬俤友 ,邻里和睦,笑语相闻。这些胡同的名字,充分展示了老北京人的智慧和想象力 ,以及对生活的一种美好愿景 。
    鼓楼下生活的人们 ,是最接近泥土的百姓。老口味的小吃 应有尽有。若是想品尝一下老北京的味道,不妨一路行来,老字号的炒肝 、包子 、麻豆腐 、爆肚  、炸咯吱、 卤煮 ,灌肠, 北冰洋汽水……店面很小,装修也不奢华 ,就像妈妈家的旧式厨房,桌上有些油腻,空气里飘着烟火气 ,连服务员都是毫不客气的寒暄,然而,这深入骨髓的朴素 ,让你甘心俯首帖耳的坐上良久,苦等一碗京酱肉丝面 。

一样喜欢这条大街的,不止是来自各地的中国人。总有穿着半旧夹克 ,骑着自行车 ,顶着麦黄的头发来采风的外国人,穿街过巷,兴高采烈的路过。有的索性赖在这里 ,开个小店,做起了中国的小老板,穿着唐装 ,擎着烟斗,头戴瓜皮帽,洋腔洋调的模仿京腔京韵 ,透着一股沙丁鱼味的京片子,看过去就知道他们深爱北京,深爱这条街道 。

一个平米见方的小店面 ,门前木凳上摆着茯苓酸奶,是那种圆圆的肚子的粗白瓷瓶子,上面用橡皮筋勒着一张粉色图案的商标 ,瓶子里是浓稠的酸奶 ,有着微微的甜。老板似乎是旁边院里的老人,正在晾晒棉被,我自己拿起一瓶酸奶 ,找根吸管坐在门前矮凳上静静的吃完。把零钱压在瓶下,又探头跟院子里的他笑着挥别,他也随意的挥挥手 ,继续拍打棉被,细微的灰尘在阳光里跳舞 。转身离去时,忽然有一种感动 ,为着这个淡薄的下午和淡漠的老人。
    街角有年迈的老人,守着阳光兜售小吃;相互搀扶的盲人夫妇,一路摸索着行进;带着古怪帽子的女孩子结伴走过;顽皮的小男孩踩着滑板车一溜烟跑远……他们脸上都挂着平和温暖的笑。

 

英译版本:

For a long time, every time I have to go from the east to the west, go to the Beijing Normal University. Each time you have to pass the Gulou Street outside Deshengmen. This street with the hustle and bustle, the quiet clock tower is said to be the ancient house of Yuan Dynasty. There is Beijing's oldest alley, Hutong gathered the power of the House of House and the ordinary people. Each old-fashioned cultural atmosphere is surrounded by the quaint cultural atmosphere. The ancient gut is surrounded, and the warpi is flying. If the Gulou Street is more like a woman, when the appearance of Kunqu is soft, the hearts of the vicissitudes, the inclusion of the incomprehensible.

There are many old alley in both sides of the Gulou Street. There is a place where a Nanluogu alley is a gathering of young people. There are a lot of small shops and dinner, regardless of Beijing's young generation street. Due to the young people gathered, the trend store also competes for the settlement, and there are many personality, Xing Luo. Walking on the street, you can find a limited edition of the wave shoes, DIY works of national designers, German coffee shops, handmade model stores, and more. In a musical instrument store, there is a boy who holds guitar singing, with sad eyes.
After the weather turns warm, the group of foreigners and idle young people are squeezing here. In order to find a snack called a sweet and uncomfortable, they will be rooted in the row. Every time I passed the car, I have to pay attention to a shabby wooden door building. This tribute to find it, no one pays attention to it? In the corner, the carved is so beautiful. Fadie of the tie of the smoke, still implicit a charming plot. .

Outside the vintage door, next to plastic trash, I don't know who I throw two jars, the colors of thick porcelain ginger, looked at the sun in the warm sun, and it feels that life has become safe. I hesitated for a while, I came back, I was very sinking and went home, and I made a pen washing, a painting cylinder.

On both sides of the road of Gulou West Street, the stupid leaves have not grown up with a lush leaves, like a fan painting in the Song Dynasty in the sky, very elegant, very clean look, seemed to be a cold dutiful point. The mood of the autumn water is in front of the eye.

Walking along the road, a lot of alley is standing with a brand. Some are elegant. The Oxer, reminds people of the old tree, the old tree of the autumn, a few households, and the people in the market; the rendeng alley, must be in the early morning of the spring, there is a poet to see the door to the doorWhite lotus is clear and clear, only to take this good name; 花 胡, I want to have a passionate woman, in the floral forest, miss the far-walking lovers, 花 原 is a bitter Flower, there is a kind of sad beauty; filial piety alley, must have lived in a modest gentleman, Shang Xiaotang, the next tribute, the neighborhood, and laughter. The names of these alley, fully demonstrate the wisdom and imagination of old Beijingers, as well as a beautiful vision for life.
People who live under the tower are the people closest to the soil. Old taste snacks should have. If you want to taste the taste of Old Beijing, you may wish to come all the way, the old name of the fried liver, buns, magazine, explosive belly, fried, halogen, enema, Beibei Boofangyan ... The store is very small, the decoration is not luxurious, just like a mother The old kitchen of the house, there is some greasy on the table, the air floating in the air, even the waiter is a cold, however, this deep into the simplicity of the bone, let you take a good time, wait a bowl of Jingjiu Pork surface.

I like this street, more than a Chinese from all over the world. There is always a half-old jacket, riding a bicycle, a foreigner who has made a wind in the head of the wheat yellow, wears a street, and the road is high. Some sorry is here, open a small shop, start China's small boss, wearing Tang suit, engraving smoking strips, tag, 皮 京 京 京, 片 片 片 片 片 片 片 子 片 腔 腔 腔 腔 腔 腔 腔I will know that they know in Beijing and love this street.

A small shop of a square, the wooden bench in front of the door, is a rough white porcelain jar of the round belly, with rubber band with a pink pattern of a pink pattern, jar It is a thick yogurt, with a slight sweet. The boss seems to be the old man in the side of the surround, is drying the cotton, I will pick up a bottle of yogurt, find the root of the straw sitting quietly on the front of the door. Pushing the change under the bottle, and the probe smiled with him, he also waved his hand, continued to shoot cotton, and subtle dust dancing in the sun. When turning around, there was a touch of movement, for this faint afternoon and indifferent.
There is an old man in the street, keeping the snacks in the sun; the blind couples who are helping each other are explored; with a girl with a weird hat and walk around; the naughty little boy stepped on the skateboard and ridless ... They hang a flat and warm faceLaughing.

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