瘦西湖里相思无处

作者:关雅彤人气:1980更新:2021-07-18 12:00:15

去扬州的时候,天气还很冷 ,正是北方的冬天 ,南方难熬的阴冷季节 。那天,上海继细细蒙蒙的小雨之后,下起了瓢泼似的大雨 ,彼时,我已经坐在了去往镇江的高铁上 。
   列车外,从阴雨凄迷到渐渐转晴 ,像我的心情,从濡湿中慢慢干燥起来。
   关于扬州,最美的是那句“烟花三月下扬州 ”;最恣意轻狂的是“腰缠十万贯 ,骑鹤下扬州。 ”
   似乎等了很多年,“瘦西湖”成为一个梦境中的愿望:杨柳拂堤处,草长莺飞 ,侬歌软语,娇媚如花的少女,F4一样的少年 ,弹指间笑意春光里 。
   不是烟雨绮靡的农历三月 ,也不是樱花绚烂的阳春三月,更没能腰缠十万贯,未施薄妆 ,随意挂了件韩式米白半大衣的我不顾天寒地凉 、草枯树干执意地下了扬州。
   下了高铁,坐的是镇江到扬州的渡船。我没有想到渡口的名称赫亮亮地就叫作“京口瓜洲” 。那一瞬间,大诗人王安石的《泊船瓜洲》顺口就被我诌了出来:京口瓜洲一水间 ,钟山只隔数重山。春风又绿江南岸,明月何时照我还。
   直到上了渡船,才真正明白什么样的距离是“一水间 ” ,3元的船票价,8分钟的航程,扬州就在你抬抬胳膊就可以指到的地方 。那一刻 ,佩服的不是古代的诗人,是古代诗人的脚步。当他们站在渡船之上,那随口而出的何止是诗句 ,是他们的脚千里万里的行程 ,是他们的眼千里万里的浮华,是他们的心千里万里的沧桑。
   下了扬州,从“京口瓜洲”开始 ,把从小到大所有学过会背的诗句,能想的都想了起来 。于是情不自禁地,对扬州又有了一种另眼相看的情怀 ,似乎相比于苏杭,更加亲切温润。
   扬州的老城区很安逸。以“文昌阁”为中心的几条街道纵横交错,井然有序 。街道很宽 ,两旁有干净宽敞的绿化带,绿化带里偶尔还会有石板铺的小路,让步履匆匆的行人不自觉地就慢下脚步 ,拐到蓬蓬壮壮的树枝里面去一瞧究竟 。如果是春天或者夏天,该会是怎样的绿色?怎样的惬意清凉?
  扬州是“古运河城市 ”,以水为最 ,以绿为最。尽管在这阴凉的季节 ,看不到花红柳绿的风景,却仍然处处让你感受到南方的水润恬淡。路上随处可见“风景区指示牌”,早早地看见“公共卫生间”标示牌 ,却沿着弯弯曲曲的小路走进去很久也没有看见,直以为是拐进了什么“竹林 ”风景区 。笑意盎然地在黄绿相间的竹林前照相的时候,才发现这绿竹竟是长在深深长长的一条无名河畔 ,顺着好心的扬州老师傅指路的手看过去,才发现,卫生间就在你暮然回首的身后。
  笑 ,总是情不自禁地就来,在扬州,没有伤春悲秋 ,没有愁肠郁结,你只会觉得自己沉浸在一竹一水一亭一阁中的双眼不够用,只恨不得连最基本的生理要求也让别人来代替完成。在那慢慢悠闲的脚步里 ,辛苦的忙碌 、疼痛的煎熬、似乎人生所有痛苦的印记都渐渐淡泊了出去 ,只剩下眼前,面朝扬州,春暖花开 。
   扬州有名的风景区很多 ,我听从网友旅游指南的建议,沿着个园-何园-瘦西湖的顺序进行了游览,其间 ,最好吃的是“三香碎金扬州炒饭”,最好看的是我心心念念的瘦西湖。
   据说扬州文昌阁附近的“三香碎金扬州炒饭”店是唯一一家正宗店。15元的扬州炒饭,不是北方的那种满满一大盘 。盘子是长条形的 ,炒饭占了盘子的一大半,也是满满的;颜色不似北方扬州炒饭里有蛋的金黄,黄瓜的翠绿 ,但是香菇、虾仁等辅料一应俱全。不知道是我饿极了,还是决心把扬州炒饭的味道牢牢地吃出来,把满满一份扬州炒饭吃得干干净净。饭饱之余 ,才发觉 ,小店里很安静,每个来吃饭的人都静悄悄的,或许只有那不抬头的某人和我一样用“猪八戒吃人参果 ”的方式填下了这份闻名遐迩的美食 。
   坐在椅子上静静歇息的时候 ,意外地发现摆着凉菜的柜台上方挂着大大的牌子,上面醒目地写着“腰缠十万贯,骑鹤下扬州。”不由自主地就笑了 ,这句让我心生爱慕的句子,在一抬眼间就对我扑面而来,还真是有缘。
  吃过饭 ,我沿着路两侧种满了法国梧桐(我是对照书上自己认定的)的淮海路,向个园走去 。
  微冷的2月,身着灰黄布衣的梧桐静静地站在马路两侧 ,低矮 、粗壮的树干上色彩斑驳,茂盛的枝桠奇曲的伸展着,在不经意拂过的凉风里掠过些微的萧条 ,些微的荒凉 。
  我走得很慢 ,偶尔停下来站一站,马路上人流车马寂然而过,我恍如站在时光的河里 ,醉在这去尽繁华的梧桐街头,淡淡温暖。
  似乎在那遥远的北方海滨小城里,固执而忙碌的我一直用尽自己所有的努力在坚持着什么 ,固守着什么,承受着什么,在这一刻 ,忽然都放下了,只剩下环绕在周围的依赖与信任的宁静。
  那原本茂盛的充满异国情调的法国梧桐,尽管没有在它最浪漫的时候与我相遇 ,我却仍然感觉到了它的最美 。
   个园,最特别的是竹。各色品种,种满了小路的两侧。我的apple手机里照满了相 ,却又一张张删除掉了 ,这里,装得下竹影,装不下竹的风骨 。个园里还有名的是“四季假山” ,我转来转去,好像只看到了三季,有一季 ,怎样都没有找到。那一点无缘的缺憾,也许只是因为某一个转身太快。
   从个园出来,天已经黑了 。夜游古运河 ,是来的路上就想好的。古运河岸边的灯很漂亮,桥栏下、花树顶、屋檐边,处处彩灯闪烁 ,流光溢彩。在漆黑的夜里,每一个抬眼间的火树银花,每一个凝眸处的灯烛辉煌 ,都让你不知身在何处 ,却又在对面熟悉的温暖里,缓缓绽开笑颜 。
   游何园是在早上,据说刘晓庆正在这里排古装剧《大红灯笼高高挂》 ,我站在中西合璧的绣楼上,看着火红的灯笼,大红的彩球 ,想着刚刚路过的“镜花水月 ”,又一次感觉自己都不真实起来。何芷舠老先生以“寄啸山庄 ”命名于此,在这红尘里建了这样一处清雅之地 ,却偏偏于亭台楼阁间 、山石水波里弄出“水中花、镜中月”,他是要留住红尘里不可留的这一丝情愫还是要让你清清楚楚地看到,“镜花水月”即便在眼前 ,终是不可触摸。
   带了许许多多的情结,顺着长长的河道,终于走到了心心念念却推到最迟的“瘦西湖 ”的门口 。对着刚劲有力的“瘦西湖”三个大字 ,一脸倾慕的我迟迟迈不开脚步 。
   人对某个人、某种东西的喜爱 ,有时候纠缠久了就是一种情结。我对瘦西湖,应该就有。杭州的西湖无疑是美的,那种飘渺若仙的美 ,只适合白娘子和许仙相遇,瘦西湖则不然,它小巧玲珑 ,风光旖旎,所有累了 、倦了的人,都可以到这里 ,找个角落的小亭子,寻处朝阳的绿地,安然地坐一下午 。
   就像那静静在湖边搁浅的画舫 ,就像那在岸滩上交颈卧睡的鸳鸯,就像那曲折迂回的石桥边石上的清泉 ,好像这里 ,每一处都安然 ,每一步都凝固了岁月的烟尘,可以清澈地倚靠、沉睡。
   瘦西湖里的人很少,缠绵悱恻的爱不适合这里 ,轰轰烈烈燃烧的爱也不适合这里,这里恬静、温润,就像那个梦里来了千回百回的男子 ,儒雅的微笑,干净的裤脚,看不到一点红尘里的蒸熬喧嚣。
  这里是适合相伴的 。我看到孝顺的女儿扶着满头白发的母亲慢慢地走过清泉上的木桥;看到年轻的母亲悠然地走在刚刚冒出新绿的草坪小路上 ,她跌跌撞撞的小女儿在前面找着手臂奔跑;我看到那一对花季少男少女在茂密的树林前温情脉脉的相拥而笑;我看到瘦西湖 ,敞开他的衣襟,轻轻地拥我入怀 ,用他弯弯的石桥 、高高的石牌、绿茵遮盖的九曲廊回承载我满眼的新奇,每一步的神秘,我从未来过这里 ,却似乎从未离开过。
  瘦西湖很长 ,步履随意的我走得并不完全,却不遗憾。我来这里,不是为了看风景 ,不是为了照相留念,只是一定要来看看它,如此而已 。
  我尽情随意地在里面游荡了一下午 ,坐了四面环树的凉亭,读了随处可见的对联,想起“天上宫阙 ,不知今夕何年”,想起“沙暖睡鸳鸯,春风花草香 ” ,想起“墙角数枝梅,凌寒独自开”,想起“雕阑玉砌应犹在 ,只是朱颜改” ,想起“君生我未生,我生君已老 ”,想起“愿得一心人 ,白首不相离”,想到文人墨客,千古风流 ,烟波浩渺处,风采依旧。
  而我,一个已过青葱岁月的女子 ,在十指纤纤的苍白里,在瘦西湖千年不变的夕阳里,带着扬州沾衣的古韵 ,在这里,小眯了一下午。
  离开扬州的时候,没有惆怅的离愁 。坐在温暖的高铁上 ,我想到的不仅仅是大上海纸醉金迷的繁华 ,还有北方古城里温暖干燥的风沙。

英译版本:

When you go to Yangzhou, the weather is still very cold. It is the winter in the north, and the southern is difficult in the cold season. On that day, after the small rain of Xiaoyou, Shanghai was a heavy rain, when I was sitting on the high-speed rail to Zhenjiang.
In addition to the train, from the rainy fans, it is gradually sunny, like my mood, slowly drying from the moistening.
About Yangzhou, the most beautiful is the "Fireworks in March"; the most important thing is "the waist is 100,000, riding the crane, Yangzhou."
seems to have waited for many years, "Sweet West Lake" Become a wish in a dream: Yangliu dike, the grass grows, Sheng soft, tend to flow like a flower, the same boy, the bomb is smiling in the spring.
It is not the smoke and rain, the Chinese calendar, nor is it a cherry blossoms, the spring, spring, more than 100,000, unbeded, unsuitable, and I will hang the Korean rice white and semi-coat, I don't care about Tiandan The cold, the cranedium trunk insisted on Yangzhou.
The high-speed rail is sitting in Zhenjiang to Yangzhou's ferry. I didn't think that the name of the ferry is called "Jingkou megaine". At that moment, the "Boatboat" of the big poet Wang Anshi was taken out by me: Jingkou Guada is a water, Zhongshan only varies from the mountain. The spring breeze and the south bank of the green river, when I was still in March.
Until the ferry, he really understood what kind of distance is "a water", 3 yuan of the ship's fare, 8 minutes of voyage, Yangzhou can point to the place where you raise your arm. At that moment, it was not an ancient poet, an ancient poet's footsteps. When they stand above the ferry, the feelings of the sprinkles are the verses, which is their footstelous itinerary, which is the float of their eyes and thousands of miles, is their vicissitudes of their hearts.
In Yangzhou, starting from "Jingkou megada", you can think of the verses who have learned from a small to big. So I can't help but have a different feeling of shackles in Yangzhou. It seems that than Su Hang, more intimate and warm.
The old town of Yangzhou is very comfortable. Several streets with "Wenchang Pavilion" are overlapped in order. The street is very wide, there is a clean and spacious green belt on both sides. In the green belt, there will be small roads in the green belt, so that the pedestrians do not consciously slow down, turn to the fluffy tree branches. . If it is spring or summer, what kind of green?What kind of cool cool?
Yangzhou is "ancient canal city", with water is the most, green is the most green. Although in this cool season, you can't see the landscape of the flower red willow, but still let you feel the southern water. On the road, you can see the "Scenic Area Log", see the "Public Health" marker, but it has not seen it along the curve of the curved curved song, and does not see it in the "Bamboo Forest" scenic area. When the smile was in front of the bamboo forest between the yellow-green, it was found that this green bamboo was actually a long and long-lasting, the hands of the Yangzhou master, and the hand of the road came to see, the bathroom Just behind you look back.
Laughing, always can't help but come, in Yangzhou, there is no hurt spring, there is no sadness, you will only feel that you are immersed in a bamboo, a hot pavilion, the eyes are not enough, only hateful Basic physiological requirements also allow others to replace it. In that slowly, it is hard to have a hard time, the pain of pain, and it seems that all painful imprints in life are gradually indifferent. Leave only, facing Yangzhou, spring blossoms.
There are many famous scenic spots in Yangzhou. I listen to the suggestions of netizens travel guidelines, take a tour along the garden - Heyuan - the order of thin Western Lake, and the best is "three fragrant golden state fried rice", It is best to look at the thin West Lake I am happy.
It is said that the "three fragrance of the golden Yangzhou fried rice" near Yangzhou Wenchang Pavilion is the only authentic store. 15 yuan Yangzhou fried rice, not a large plate of the north. The plate is a long strip, fried rice accounts for a large half, is also full; color is not like the golden, cucumbers of the northern Yangzhou fried rice, but mushrooms, shrimp and other excipients. I don't know if I am hungry, but I am determined to have a firm taste of Yangzhou fried rice. After the meal, I found that the store is very quiet, everyone who comes to eat is quiet, maybe only someone who doesn't look up and I use "pig eight ring to eat people" way. This is known. Dollow food.
When sitting in the chair, he accidentally found a big brand above the counter on the cabinet, and wrote the "waist 10,000", riding a crane in Yangzhou. "Can't help but laugh This sentence made my heart love the sentence, and I came to me on a lifting of the eye.
I have eaten rice, I have a full of French Wutong along the road (I am a letter to the book, I will go to the park.
Microcaton, in February, the phoenix in the gray yellow cloth quietly stands on both sides of the road, low, thick trunk, stretching, lush branches, inadvertent, cool The wind is full of slight depression, some slight desolate.
I've walking very slowly, occasionally stopping standing, the road on the road is silent, I am like standing in the river of time, drunk in this, the bustling Wutong street, faint warmth.
It seems to be in the distant northern seashore, stubbornly, I have been using all my efforts to insist on what, what is sticking, what is it, at this moment, suddenly put it down, only Surrounded by the surrounding dependence and trust in peace.
The original lush French French Wutong, although there is no more romantic, I still feel the most beautiful.
The most special is bamboo. Varieties, with both sides of the road. I was filled with my Apple mobile phone, but another one was removed, here, I put it under the bamboo shadow, installing the bamboo bamboo. There is still a "four-season rockery". I turned to turn, as if I saw the three seasons, there was a season, I didn't find it. That point is no shortcomings, maybe just because a certain turn is too fast.
From the park, the sky is already black. Night tour ancient canal, thinking on the way. The lamp on the shore of the ancient canal is very beautiful, under the bridge, the top of the flower tree, the roof, the lantern is full, and the streamer is bruising. In the dark night, every fire tree silver flower, every condellar, the gang, will make you don't know where you are, but in the face of familiarity, slowly smile.
Tour Heyuan is in the morning, it is said that Liu Xiaoqing is in ancient drama "Dahong Lantern high-hung", I stand on the embroidery of China and Western, watching the fire red lanterns, big red balls, thinking about just passing through "Mirror Water Moon", once again, I feel that I don't really get it. Mr. He Yizhen was named "Shutdown", in this red dust, but it is a place in the pavilion, and the mountain stone water wave has made "flowers in the water", he is I want to leave this kind of love that is not allowed to stay in the red dust, I want you to see clearly, "mirrorThe flowering month "Even in front of the eyes, it is not touching.
With a lot of completion, along the long river, finally came to the most late" Sweet Western Lake ". The three big words of the "Sweet Western Lake", I am late, I will not open.
People love someone, some kind of love, sometimes it is a complement. I am thin West Lake, there should be. Hangzhou West Lake is undoubtedly beautiful, the beauty of the fairy, only suitable for the white lady and Xu Xian, the thin West Lake, it is small and exquisite, the scenery, all tired, tired people, You can come here, find a small pavilion in a corner, find the green space of the sun, take an afternoon in the afternoon.
Just like the painting of the lakeside, just like the neck sleeping on the shore鸳鸯, just like the Qingquan on the stone stone stone stone stone stone, it seems that every place is all safe, every step is solidified, you can rest, sleep, sleep.
Thin West Lake is very small The lingering love is not suitable for this, and the fierce burning love is not suitable here. It is quiet and warm, just like the dream of thousands of men in the dream, Jakya smile, clean trousers, can't see a little red dust The steaming hustle and bustle. I have been suitable. I saw the filial daughter holding a white-haired mother slowly walked through the wooden bridge on the Qingquan; seeing young mother lean leisurely On the new green lawn road, she fell into the bumper to rush in front of the arm; I saw that a young male girl smiled in the warmth of the floral trend; I saw the thin West Lake, open his clothes , Gently hold me, use his curved stone bridge, high stone sign, and the nine entrance to the nine entrance to carry me the novelty. Every step is mysterious, I have seen it from the future, but it seems to be from Didn't leave.
The thin West Lake is very long, and I am willing to go, but I am not regret. I am here, not to see the scenery, not to take pictures, but I have to come to see it, so.
I was freely wandering in the afternoon, sitting on the pavilion of the four-sided tree, reading the couplets everywhere, remembering "Heavenly Palace, I don't know what year", I remembered "sand warm sleep, spring floral grass "Xiang", I remembered "the number of pski, Yan Han alone", remembered "sculpture jade should be still, just Zhu Yan"Change" I remembered that "Junsheng I have not born, I am old", I think of "I hope to have a heart, white head is not separated", think of literati, thousands of wind, smoke, the wind, the style is still.
I, a woman who has passed on onion, in the pale in the ten fingers, in the sun, the sunny lake, with the ancient rhyme of Yangzhou Zhiyi, here, Xiaoyan a pond.
Leaving Yangzhou At the time, there was no ignorant. Sitting on a warm high-speed rail, I think is more than just the bustling of Shanghai paper drunken fans, as well as the warm and dry sand in the ancient city of Northern.

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