香橼和梅子饼

作者:杨仲狂人气:1909更新:2021-07-18 10:00:10

自那年被两个宜良水蜜桃酥了两天门齿后,我就不敢怎么吃水果和果脯 ,尤其怕酸涩 ,但有那么几样,一见就满心喜欢,现挑两样出来说说。
  
  香橼
  
  说到香橼 ,先学习一下基础知识:香橼学名Citrus medica L,又名枸橼,芸香科柑橘属植物 。香橼是植物香橼和药材香橼的统称 ,植物香橼为常绿小乔木或灌木植物,生长在海拔350米到1750米的高温多湿环境,主产于浙江、江苏 、广东 、广西、云南等地 ,秋季果实成熟时采收 。云南西双版纳阔叶林中,有处于半野生状态的香橼。
  
  可以看出来,香橼是一种南方水果 ,可很多南方人也不太熟悉,不仅叫不出名字,还老往柚子的方向去联想 ,但就是不往其本家佛手方面靠一靠。云南一带 ,药用以外,香橼主要用来制作果脯,像在丽江 ,最受当地人喜爱的果脯,就是香橼脯 。
  
  不过最常见的,还是当水果鲜吃。香橼虽然秋季成熟 ,但只要不去采摘,其实完全可以养上两三年,让果实发育到“巨大 ”程度 ,同时果皮也变得黄灿老辣。香橼的外形比较复杂,有排球、足球大小的球形,也有尺寸略小于冬瓜的“冬瓜型 ” 。表面有的比较光滑 ,有的却凹凸疣突坑坑洼洼,思维比较飘逸的,难说会联想到月亮上无边无际的陨石坑。
  
  寻常所见的香橼 ,绿色为主黄色为辅 ,吃起来相当方便,切片分解一下即可——整个香橼,可以吃表皮以外 ,其余全部是果肉,几乎很难发现果核。当然最让人高兴的事情,莫过于吃水果却没有果汁碍手的困扰:香橼的水分 ,隐于近似海绵体的果肉中,轻易不会外露 。这使得香橼的口感有点难于定义,说它柔软 ,它又爽脆一把,让人心头“咯噔”一下。
  
  香橼的滋味,也在不好说之列 ,总体来说,香气远远盖过了味道。但一经入口,却感觉不到多少香气 ,略有一点点甜意 ,一丝丝涩感,其余不足以道也 。也就是说,香橼嗅觉方面的感受 ,胜过味觉,其中的芳香物,非常“醒口”。用香橼来佐茶 ,有时候,的确可以重新激活被茶水渐渐麻痹的感官。如果还不满足,那么取香橼一片 ,涂上一点蜂蜜,一口下去,一定会有什么东西“出窍 ”的幻觉 。
  
  大理梅子饼
  
  “三伏取熟梅捣烂 ,不见水,不加盐,晒十日 。去核及皮 ,加紫苏 ,再晒十日收贮。用时或盐或糖,代醋亦精”——这是清代医家顾仲《养小录》(1818年著)一书中的“梅酱”条目。顾仲是浙江嘉兴人,重视养生 ,《养小录》三卷,其实是关于饮食烹饪的著作 。
  
  顾仲所说的“梅酱 ”,在云南大理古城街头 ,如今仍旧可见相似物——紫苏梅。紫苏梅,一些大理人也叫“冰梅”,不过大多数外地人 ,还是习惯称之为“梅子饼”。其大致制作步骤如下:野生梅子用石臼整体捣烂,与盐 、糖以及甘草粉混合腌制,然后揉成团 ,用一整张紫苏叶包裹起来,压扁成小饼状,直径约六、七厘米 ,厚度不及一厘米 。
  
  与“梅酱 ”略不同 ,云南大理的紫苏梅,并不去掉果皮,也不去捣烂的核渣 ,此外还添加了甘草粉,味道复合而丰富。紫苏叶的作用比较特别,既是增香的配料 ,又作为外包装,有驱虫防虫的作用。
  
  酸、甜 、咸以及其他不可名状的味道,发酵食物梅子饼滋味复合 ,冲突但不荒诞 。其中含有果核碎片,其实并不十分碍口,还略有点含而不舍的玩味。用梅子饼佐茶 ,属于一种相当奇特的体验,但喜爱者如是评价:最多半片甚至不到,围绕着它 ,三、四个人喝了一整个下午的茶。奇妙的地方 ,就是可以不停地吃东西,其实并没有吃下些什么,简直佐茶妙品 。
  
  既可以不停地吃 ,又希望基本没有吃,算吃了也白吃——听起来与梅子饼的滋味一样,有些冲突 ,但这的确是一些人群的需要。

英译版本:

Since the two Yape Noodle Tao, I have two days after the two-day dent, I will not dare to eat fruits and fruit, especially afraid, but there is so a few, when I am full, I'm going to tell.

Citron

Speaking of citron, first study basic knowledge: citron is known for Citrus Medica L, also known as citrus, citrus. Citron is collectively referred to as plant citron and medicinal materials. Plant citron is evergreen small trees or bush plants, which grows at sea level 350 meters to 1750 meters, which is mainly produced in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan. Equation, the autumn fruit is harvested. Yunnan West Double Edition is broad Yelin, there are citron in semi-wild state.

It can be seen that citron is a southern fruit, but many South people are not very familiar, not only can't call the name, but also to the direction of the grapefruit, but it is not to go to his own Buddha. Rely on one by one. Yunnan, outside the medicinal, citron mainly used to make fruit, like a fruitful fruit that is most popular in the Lijiang, is a citron.

But the most common, or when the fruit is fresh. While the autumn is mature, but as long as you don't pick it, it can be fully raised for two or three years, and the fruit is developed to the "huge" level, and the peel has become Huang Can. The shape of the citron is more complicated, there is a ball, the soccer size sphere, and has a slightly smaller "winter melon" in the melon. The surface has a smooth, and some have a bump and pits, and thinking is relatively elegant. It is difficult to say that it will be associated with an intimate crater on the moon.

The commonly seen, the green is a main yellow. It is quite convenient to eat, and the slice is decomposed. The whole citron can eat the epidermis, and the rest is almost hard to find. Fruit core. Of course, the most happy things are that they eat fruit but there is no juice to trouble: the moisture of citron, hidden in the flesh of approximately sponge, easily. This makes the taste of the citron are a bit difficult to define, saying it is soft, it is cool, let people feel "噔".

Citron's taste is also a matter of not saying, overall, the aroma is far from the taste. But once the entrance, I can't feel much, I have a little sweet meaning, a silky, the rest is not enough.. That is to say, the feelings of the citron olfactory are better than the taste, the aromatic, very "awake". It is sometimes reactivating the sensory that is gradually paralyzed by tea. If it is not satisfied, then take a smear, apply a little honey, a bit, there will be something "out" illusion.

Dali plum seed

"Three volts are smashed, do not see water, do not add salt, sunburn 10 days. Remove nuclear and skin, add purple Su, and then tannedate. Time or salt or sugar, vinegar is also a special "- this is the" Plum sauce "entry in the Qing Dynasty doctor Gu Zhong" Report "(1818). Gu Zhong is the three volumes of Zhejiang Jiaxing, pay attention to health, "raising small record", in fact, is a work about diet cooking.

Gu Zhong said, "Mei Sauce", in the streets of the ancient city of Yunnan, now still visible similarity - Zi Sume. Zi Sume, some of the big man is also called "Ice Mei", but most of the foreigners, or habitually referred to as "Plum Pie". The rough production steps are as follows: The wild plum is smashed with the whole stone, mixed with salt, sugar, and licorice powder, then wrapped into a group, wrapped in a group, compromised into small cakes, diameter of about 6, seven Centimeter, thickness is not a centimeter.

Different from "Plum Sauce", Zi Sume, Dali, Yunnan, does not drop the skin, nor to smash the nuclear slag, which also added licorice powder, taste composite and rich. The role of purple leaves is particularly quite auxiliary ingredients, and as an outer packaging, there is an insect-induced effect.

Acid, sweet, salty, and other unknown flavors, fermented food plums taste composite, conflict but not absurbs. Among them, there is a fruit core fragment, which is not very honest, and it is still a bit of a taste. With the plum pie, it belongs to a quite a strange experience, but the lovers are assessed: Maximum half, can't even, around it, three, four people drink a whole afternoon tea. Wonderful places, it is possible to stop eating, but don't eat something, simply add tea.

You can not stop eating, and hope that there is basically no eating, it is also eating too much - sounds like the taste of the plum pie, but this is indeed a need for some people.

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