翠湖留下的心影

作者:项飘瑶人气:465更新:2021-05-05 14:00:02

    翠湖 ,这个昆明市中心的公园,在昆明可说是无人不晓。里面楼台亭阁,曲水回廊 ,树影婆裟,波光潋滟,于高楼大厦车水马龙中突现这样一个好去处是十分难得的 ,汪曾祺先生在《翠湖心影》中曾说:“城市有湖 ,这在中国,在全世界都是不多的 。”

    翠湖原名“九龙池 ”。清人倪蜕《滇云历年传载》“九泉所出,汇而成池 ,故名九龙池。”九龙池现在仍在,已无九泉涌出,恐流失 ,单独砌成一个池子 。翠湖还有一个老名字:“菜海子”,想是当年“清回透彻,蔬圃居其半 ” ,周围种菜的人家多。再早只是昆明城外“赤旱不竭,土人于中种千叶莲”的一片沼泽。出水成河,名“洗马河” 。明初 ,傅友德 、蓝玉、沐英带兵入云南,在这里“种柳牧马 ”,1919年筹建公园 ,因其“十亩荷花鱼世界 ,半城杨柳拂楼台 ”的湖光山色而改名“翠湖” 。这名字一直沿用至今。

    翠湖一年四季都是绿的。尤以雨季 。草木繁茂,翠湖的绿树几乎覆盖了全部楼台亭阁。高处望去,只是一片绿树碧水 ,此时,就只剩一个字“翠”。引得汪曾祺又一次赞叹:“翠湖这名字取得真好! ”

    二十世纪三四十年代,市区小 ,翠湖处于市区的西北郊,因之“昆明人特意来游翠湖的也有,不多 ,多数人只是往这里穿过 。”(汪曾祺《翠湖心影》)可以想见当时翠湖有多么安静、清澈。

    这种路人多游人少的现象随着城市的急剧膨胀,城区比改革开放前扩大了近十倍!原在昆明市区西北郊的翠湖,现在已处于市中心位置 ,翠湖实际上成了一个大大的街心花园。自然生态也发生了急剧的变化 。原来的水源是九股地下水,现在主要引盘龙江水补给,通向滇池的洗马河 ,现在已经不复存在 ,变成了车水马龙的街道。但闹市中心能有这样一个好去处,自然会成为南来北往的路人 、省内省外的游客抄近道、游览、歌舞健身的市内首选。于是,昔日安静的翠湖逐渐变成了全市最喧嚣的地方 。我家住翠湖边 ,以往是好福气,现在是好遭罪,从早上五点多到晚上十一点 ,难得有片刻的安静。

    先是一位也许是抗美援朝的老兵,仍有当年的豪迈情怀,天不亮就在翠湖边高唱“雄赳赳 ,气昂昂,跨过鸭绿江……”似乎仍操着军人的步伐,威武地从我窗下走过。此后 ,必有一中年壮汉,对天作狮子吼,道:“欧——吼! ”此公中气足 ,肺活量之大似经扩音机吼出 ,有着极强的穿透力和震撼力,经他一吼,相信没有不被吓醒的 。在他之后 ,这种吼叫声逐渐多起来,雄起雌伏,男女皆有 ,一时间翠湖成了百家争鸣的场所,原因据说此吼可以健身云云 。八点之后,歌舞健身大军才正式入园 ,他们三五成群,自带音响,各占一方 ,在一个叫“水月轩”的园中园里,不足一亩面积,却有五六起唱歌跳舞晨练的人 ,播放的音乐轰轰然混响成一片 ,在旁边人听来已分不清谁是谁的,在别处,可能会因此发生抢地盘 ,相互指责叫骂的事,然昆明人却能相安若素,互不见怪 ,并能准确地按照自己音响播出的节奏,扭臀摆腰,旁若无人地手之舞之 ,足之蹈之,这不能不说是如昆明气候一样温煦的昆明市风的一大亮点。昆明人那种好玩而不好斗,活泼而不生猛的民性 ,在喧闹的翠湖中得到最充分的展现!

    也有占据一个小亭子,一角小回栏,在一支笛子或一把二胡的伴奏下的独唱或就一个人清唱。哪怕声音哑的离谱 ,尖的牙齿发酸 ,唱者也自得其乐 。还有郑重地穿上演出服,化着浓妆的大妈们,或三五成群 ,或单打独斗,开足音响,边跳边唱“假如你要嫁人 ,不要嫁给别人……”其乐陶陶,完全不在乎有没有观众或观众的感受。她们自己唱歌给自己听,自己跳舞给自己看。最有气势当数彝族的左脚舞 ,一来便几十上百人围成个大圈子,弹着十几把月琴 、三弦,一跳几个小时 ,中间不停不歇,通宵达旦也不成问题 。

    随着歌舞的人群入园,游客 、路人也越来越多 ,用“过江之鲫 ”来形容毫不夸张。路边、树下 ,卖小首饰工艺品的,卖糕点风味小吃的,乃至竞拍“齐鲁名家字画”的 ,也纷纷开业,翠湖十点以后又成了一个大商场。

    环翠湖的人行道上也很热闹 。这里不约而同地集中了好几个小乐队。有老头们的民乐小乐队,演奏花灯和云南民歌 ,有气派的铜管乐队,奏《解放军进行曲》和《歌唱祖国》。还有个管弦乐队,高中低管弦乐器搭配得当 ,看来是专业演艺团体退休人员组成的 。有时还能听到不俗的女中音,仿关牧村的《吐鲁番的葡萄熟了》,围听的人最多。

    这就是现在的翠湖。从凌晨五点多到午夜十一点 。之后 ,总以为静下来了,不,还有个卖唱的歌手压轴 ,照样开足音响 ,唱起时下最流行的《小苹果》:“你是我的小呀小苹果,怎么爱你都不嫌多……”

    虽不说天天如此,起码大部分时间是这样 。看看现在翠湖周边 ,都是几十层的高楼大厦,翠湖已被团团围住。可怜的翠湖已成了一个小小的盆景了。设想每天晚饭后,只要每幢高楼 ,每个窗户后各走出一个人来到翠湖散步,几十幢高楼会有多少人进入翠湖?更别说外来务工人员,旅游者 ,借道的行人……翠湖能不日夜喧嚣?今天的翠湖已不是“柳林洗马 ”那样一片田园风光的好去处了 。白天歌舞喧天,入夜霓虹闪烁,气压低时 ,翠湖上空还灰蒙蒙一片,这个“水绿天青不起尘”的城市,也出现了北京霾的可怕身影。声污染、光污染 、空气污染……翠湖已为我们付出了代价。

    我想努力找回二十世纪三四十年代汪曾祺《翠湖心影》的那份静谧 。一个雨夜 ,我读到“有的夜晚从湖中大路上走过 ,会忽然泼喇一声,从湖心跃起一条极大的红鱼,吓你一跳。”在翠湖今天还能找到那种氛围吗?正值小雨淅沥 ,翠湖罕见的没有人影,没有歌声。我当即撑起一把雨伞,决定独自雨中漫步翠湖 ,寻找一点逝去的古老 。穿过翠湖的堤以及堤上的拱桥,听细雨中沙沙作响的树,看影影绰绰的楼台亭阁这些百年前留下的风景。“细雨鱼儿出 ” ,泼喇一声,湖里果然真也跃起了一条大鱼。刹那间,我仿佛一下子回到了《翠湖心影》里 ,心里也跃起了一阵惊喜 。然而当鱼儿落入水中,湖面荡起的却是那五颜六色的霓虹。那种诡谲,那种变幻使我明白:鱼 ,已经不是汪曾祺的那条大红鱼了 ,翠湖留下的只是心影。明天,又将是这个小盆景歌舞喧嚣的一天 。

    喧嚣是一种朝气,静谧是一份古老 。能否在喧嚣的朝气里保留一点儿古老的静谧呢?这应该是做得到的。“逝者如斯夫 ” ,吾梦寐以求之。

    (张长作者系白族作家)

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英译版本:

Cuihu, the park in Kunming City, said in Kunming, it is said that no one knows. Inside the building pavilion, the song, the water gap, the wave, the wave, the high-rise building, the horses, the high-rise building is very rare. Mr. Wang Zengqi said in "Cuihu Head": "City has lake. This is in China, there are not many worldwide. "

Cuihu original" Kowloon Pool ". Ni Enji, "Yunyun calendar year" "Jiuxun, let go of the pool, so the Kowloon pool." The Kowloon Pool is still there, there is no nine-spring, the fear is lost, and a pool is collected alone. There is an old name in Cuihu: "Vegetable Haizi", I want to be "clear back and thoroughly, and have a half" surrounded by vegetables. It is only a swamp that is "unhappy, the native people in the middle of the Kunming City". Swipe into the river, name "Washha River". Early, Fu Youde, Lan Yu, Mu Yingban, into Yunnan, "Type of Liu Mu" here, 1919, Shanghai, because of its "ten acres of lotus fish world, half city Yang Liuwu", "Cui lake". This name has been using it so far.
Cui Lake is green in a year. Especially in the rainy season. The grass is lush, and the green trees of Cuihu are almost covered in all-day pavilion. Looking high, just a green tree, this time, there is only one word "Cui". Erroid Wang Zengqi once again admired: "The name of Cuihu has achieved good!"

In the 1930s and forty years, the urban area of ​​urban area, the northwest suburbs in the urban area, "Kunming people special There are also things to visit the Lake, there are not many, most people just pass through it here. "(Wang Zengqi" Cuihu Hexing ") I want to see how quiet and clear in Cuihu.

The phenomenon of this passers-by multi-tour person with a sharp expansion of the city, the city has expanded nearly ten times more than the reform and opening! The original in the northwest suburbs of Kunming City, now is in the city center, Cuihu actually became a big street garden. Natural ecology has also undergone a sharp change. The original water source is a nine stock water, now mainly leading the dragon river water supply, and leads to the Zhulahe River of Dianchi, now there is no longer existed, turned into the street of the car humon. However, there is such a good place in the downtown center, naturally become a passerby in the south, and the tourists outside the province have copied, tour, and dance fitness. So, the old quiet Cuihu gradually became the most embarrassing place in the city. My family lives in CuihuI have been a good blessing in the past, and now I am sin, from the evening five o'clock in the evening, it is rare to have a moment.

First, one may be a veteran of the United States, still have the heroic feelings of the year, and the sky is not bright in Cuihu, "Xiong, angry, cross the duck, green river ..." seems to still be in the military. The pace, the mightship walks from my window. Since then, there will be a middle-aged and strong man, saying to the heavenly lion, said: "Europe -!" This public is full of public, the lungs are large, and there is a strong penetration and powerful. After him, I believe that there is no scared. After him, this screaming gradually gradually, and the male and female, both men and women, and the trend of Cuihu became a hundred parsives. The reason is said that this can fit body cloud. After eight o'clock, the song and dance fitness army officially entered the park, they made three or five complexes, self-contained, each of them, in a garden called "Shuiyue Xuan", less than one acre, there are five or six Singing the morning practice, the music played, the music is brought into one, and the people who have heard it are unclear. If there are anything else, it may happen to grab the ground, and the mutual accusers, but the Kunming people Can be safe, inspiring each other, and can accurately in accordance with the rhythm of his audio, the twisted waist, if there is no one's dance, the foot, this can't be said, such as the Kunming climate is as warm in Kunming A highlight of the city. Kunming people are so fun, lively and not fierce, and get the most fade in the noisy Cuihu!

There is also a small pavilion, a small column, a singer, or a single sing, or a single singer or a person. Even if the voice is dumb, the pointed teeth are acid, and the singer is also happy. There is also solemnly put on the performance service, the aims, or three five into groups, or singles alone, open the audio, sing, "If you want to marry, don't marry others ..." Its music pottery, completely does not care about there is no audience or audience. They sing themselves to listen to themselves, and dance themselves to see themselves. The most momently, the left and foot dance of the Yi people, there are dozens of hundreds of people surrounded a large circle, playing more than a dozen months, trumper, a few hours, the middle is not stopped, all night is not a problem .

With the song and dance people enter the park, tourists, passers-by, and use "crossing the river's carp" to describe no exaggeration. Roadside, under the tree, sell small jewelry crafts, sellThe pastry flavor snack, and even the bid "Qilu Famous Painting", but also opened, and the Tsui Lake has become a big shopping mall after ten o'clock.

The sidewalk of Huan Cuihu is also very lively. Here, there are still a few small bands in the same place. There is a folk music band with the old man, playing the flower lights and Yunnan folk songs, the copper tube band with the style, play the "Liberation Army" and "Singing the Motherland". There is also a orchestra, high school low orchestrans, it seems to be composed of professional performance group retirees. Sometimes I can hear the non-vulgar migrants, the "Turpan's grapes" in the imitation of the mountains, and the people who are surrounded.

This is now Cuihu. From 5 o'clock in the morning to 11 midnight. After that, I always so quiet, no, there is a singer of the singer, still open the sound, sing the most popular "small apple": "You are my little apple, how to love you is not too Many ... "

Although it is true, at least most of the time is like this. Look at the surroundings around Cuihu, it is a dozens of high-rise buildings, and Cuihu has been surrounded by the group. Poor Cuihu has become a small bonsai. Imagine after every day, as long as each high-rise building, each window has come out to Cuihu walk, how many people do dozens of high-rise buildings enters Cuihu? Not don't say foreign workers, tourists, pedestrians who borrow ... Can Cui Lake be hustle and bustle? Today's Cuihu is not a "Liulin Hummer" as the pastoral scenery. During the day, the night neon flashes, when the air pressure is low, the Tsui Lake is still grays, this "water green sky does not dust" city, there is also a terrible figure of Beijing. Acoustic pollution, light pollution, air pollution ... Cuihu has payded for us.

I want to work hard to find the quietness of Wang Zengqi's "Cuihu Head" in the 1930s and 1930s. A rainy night, I read "Some of the night walked from the lake in the lake, and I suddenly splashled, from the lake, I jumped a very red fish, scared you." I can find it today. Are a kind of atmosphere? There is no more shadow of the rare rain, and there is no song. I used to put a umbrella and decided to walk in the rain, looking for a little old. Through the embankment of the Cuihu and the arch bridge on the embankment, listen to the trees in the sand in the rain, look at the scenery of the shadow, the scenery of these hundred years ago. "Silver fish", splash, lakeThere is really a big fish. In an instant, I seem to have returned to "Cui Lake Heart Shadow", and I also jumped a surprise. However, when the fish fall into the water, the lake is screaming is the colorful neon. That kind of trick, that kind of change made me understand: fish, it is not the big red fish of Wang Zengqi, and it is only a heart shadow in Cuihu. Tomorrow, it will be the day of this bonsai song and dance.

The hustle and bustle is a kind of vigor, quiet is an old. Can you keep the ancient silence in the hustle and bustle? This should be made. "The Dead, such as Sv", my dreams.
(Zhang Director Bai Yi Writers)

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